Rediscovering the Sacramento Mountains

Road Tripping to Ruidoso

Photos & story by Katherine Nelson

Travel Photography Portfolio

Revisiting what makes this region of Southeastern New Mexico so special.

One of the first things that I already know about this region and the vast state of New Mexico, is just how far apart the towns and villages are, and how the mountain vistas in between them seem to go on forever. It can be a bit daunting at times to weekend travelers or those individuals visiting for the first time from larger cities. But these colored desert mountain vistas are uniquely New Mexico. The red rocks, sandy terrain, and often lush green of the valleys in the high mountain desert combine with the rich ancient cultures and the relics they have left behind which have inspired some of the most famous artists in the southwest. The small villages and towns that inhabit this part of the state are not without culture, history and their interesting stories as well. They are places to stop and poke around if only to say you were there. You may even get lucky and find a shop filled with handmade treasures from local artisans, like the Desert Spoon in Tularosa.

St. Francis de Paula Catholic Church, Tularosa, NM Shopping at the Desert Spoon; Desert Spoon owner Heather Kauffman

Tularosa is one of the small villages located in this region and on the road up into the Lincoln National Forest. With a historic catholic church as the central point in the village, along with several old adobe buildings, a museum, and a main street littered with antique shops plus southwestern art shops. These stops are a pleasant detour on the way up into the Sacramento Mountains. The history of this quiet little village is long and surprisingly torrid, think of an old western movie. Unfortunately, it was lawless all the way up in the late 1800’s, including stories of the battles that occurred between the settlers in this area and the Mescalero Apache warriors whose ancestorial lands are located nearby. A historical marker on the side of the road notes those battles just north of Tularosa with a cross at the top of Round Mountain, a tribute to the lives lost there.

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Artisan treasures in Desert Spoon, Tularosa, NM

To add to the visual senses, up in the higher elevations where the Lincoln National Forest and the White Mountain Wilderness Areas are located, and in a striking contrast to the desert, a shift to green, lush Ponderosa Pines, Douglas firs, and piñon pines are all within walking distance. A must stop in area is the mountain town of Cloudcroft which was originally a logging town with a train that was built in 1899 to carry logs down the mountain. That train would traverse across through the mountains and across the trestle through what was called the Mexican Canyon in one of the highest routes in the U.S. A good portion of the wooden trestle was restored, and visitors can view the wooden trestle from a site just off the road right before you get to Cloudcroft. A short distance from there, the cute mountain town of Cloudcroft appears around a sharp bend in the road. Named for its high-altitude location, at 9,000 ft above sea level where the clouds sometimes dot the landscape. And with artists’ shops galore, a couple of breweries, coffee houses, a gourmet wine shop, and quaint bakeries it makes strolling the main street in the cool mountain air especially wonderful. Cloudcroft even has its own family run ski resort, if you can make it up here in the winter, it’s worth it. And finding a place to stay shouldn’t be too hard since there are dozens of cute cabins scattered in the area for rent. There is also a historic lodge with a ghost that locals tell stories about, and a couple of very nice newer hotels to stay in too. But the charm of Cloudcroft never wears off, even long after you leave. As someone who has been to this town too many times to count, every single visit is a delightful experience.

Cloudcroft, NM ‍ ‍ 1899 Wooden Train Trestle near Cloudcroft ‍ ‍ Greeting the shoppers in Cloudcroft, “Copper” ‍ ‍

Afterwards a drive in the mountains along the road to Ruidoso leads you further into the ancestorial lands of the Mescalero Apache Nation where elk, deer, wild horses and even a bear are often just a short distance from the road. It’s not an uncommon site to pass tourists parked along the road taking pictures. The sweeping green valleys, mountain terrain and aspen groves are sometimes littered with wildlife. This land too is rich in history.

For centuries, the Mescalero Apache’s have maintained deep cultural and historical ties to their ancestral lands in the Sacramento Mountains. Their history includes not only conflict with settlers, but also important moments of negotiation as treaties were formed and the fighting between settlers and tribes came to an end. The treaty establishing these lands as the Mescalero Reservation was signed by President Grant and Chief Santana, in 1873. The compelling stories of the connections to the famed Apache warrior Geronimo lives on in this region of New Mexico, and decendents of his are tied to the Mescalero Tribe. Further down the road, and closer to Ruidoso but still on the Mescalero Reservation is the glorious Inn of the Mountain Godswhich is a must stop. This luxury hotel holds the most spectacular view of Sierra Blanca Mountain at 11,981 ft. it is the highest peak in this region of New Mexico. Take the time to go inside too because the incredible artwork throughout the hotel is something worth seeing, plus there are several good restaurants that include fine dining and a couple of sports bars. And if you are feeling lucky, there is also a casino.

Teepees at the Inn of the Mountain Gods

Now onto the Village of Ruidoso, located in the heart of the Sacramento Mountains with views in every direction as Sierra Blanca towers over the area to the west. Here visitors will find hiking, boutique shopping, wineries, and the mountain town adventures that accompany the higher altitudes in the Lincoln National Forest. And then there are the trails upon trails to hike, either for long distances or just a short distance to get a good look of the area, and they do not disappoint. The most famous of those near Ruidoso are the long scenic Crest and Argentina Trails located in the White Mountain Wilderness which is adjacent to the Lincoln National Forest. These trails take hikers to elevations that can be as high as 11,000 ft., and they offer sweeping views of the Sacramento Mountains and Sierra Blanca peak. A ski area which is owned and operated by the Mescalero Apache Nation is on the mountain called Ski Apache and draws visitors from around the southwest, often from Texas and Arizona.