Rediscovering the Sacramento Mountains

Road Tripping to Ruidoso

Photos & story by Katherine Nelson

Travel Photography Portfolio

Revisiting what makes this region of Southeastern New Mexico so special.

One of the first things that I already know about this region and the vast state of New Mexico, is just how far apart the towns and villages are, and how the mountain vistas in between them seem to go on forever. It can be a bit daunting at times to weekend travelers or those individuals visiting for the first time from larger cities. But these colored desert mountain vistas are uniquely New Mexico. The red rocks, sandy terrain, and often lush green of the valleys in the high mountain desert combine with the rich ancient cultures and the relics they have left behind inspired and continue to inspire some of the most famous artists in the southwest. And New Mexico’s famous vistas are here in this region of the state too. The small villages that inhabit this part of the state are not without culture, history and their interesting stories.

St. Francis de Paula Catholic Church, Tularosa, NM Shopping at the Desert Spoon; Desert Spoon owner Heather Kauffman

Tularosa is one of the small villages located in this region and on the road up into the Lincoln National Forest. With a historic catholic church as the central point in the village, along with several old adobe buildings, a museum, and a main street littered with antique shops plus southwestern art shops. These stops are a pleasant stop on the way to Ruidoso. The history of this quiet little village is long and surprisingly torrid, think of an old western movie. Unfortunately, it was lawless in the late 1800’s, including stories of the battles that occurred between the settlers in this area and the Mescalero Apache warriors whose ancestorial lands are located nearby. A historical marker on the side of the road notes those battles just north of Tularosa with a cross at the top of battle hill which if you didn’t know, it would be just another cross on the hillside as drivers roll by.

To add to the visual senses, up in the higher elevations where the Lincoln National Forest and the White Mountain Wilderness Areas are located, and in a striking contrast to the desert, a shift to green, lush Ponderosa Pines, Douglas firs, and piñon pines are all within walking distance. A must stop in area is the mountain town of Cloudcroft which was originally a logging town with a train that was built in 1899 to carry logs down the mountain. That train would traverse across through the mountains and across the trestle through what was called the Mexican Canyon in one of the highest routes in the U.S. A good portion of the wooden trestle was restored, and visitors can view the wooden trestle from a site just off the road right before you get to Cloudcroft. A short distance from there, the cute mountain town of Cloudcroft appears around a sharp bend in the road. Named for its high-altitude location, at 9,000 ft above sea level where the clouds sometimes dot the landscape. And with artists’ shops galore, a couple of breweries, coffee houses, a gourmet wine shop, and quaint bakeries it makes strolling the main street in the cool mountain air especially wonderful. Cloudcroft even has its own family run ski resort, if you can make it up here in the winter, it’s worth it. And finding a place to stay shouldn’t be too hard since there are dozens of cute cabins scattered in the area for rent. There is also a historic lodge with a ghost that locals tell stories about, and a couple of very nice newer hotels to stay in too. But the charm of Cloudcroft never wears off, even long after you leave. As someone who has been to this town too many times to count, every single visit is a delightful experience. 

Cloudcroft, NM 1899 Wooden Train Trestle near Cloudcroft Greeting the shoppers in Cloudcroft, “Copper”

Afterwards a drive in the mountains along the road to Ruidoso leads you further into the ancestorial lands of the Mescalero Apache Nation where elk, deer, wild horses and even a bear are often just a short distance from the road. Passing tourists parked along the road taking pictures is not an uncommon sight. The sweeping green valleys, mountain terrain and aspen groves are sometimes littered with elk, deer or wild horses which make for some incredible photos. This land too is rich in history. 

For centuries, the Mescalero Apache’s have maintained deep cultural and historical ties to their ancestral lands in the Sacramento Mountains. Their history includes not only conflict with settlers, but also important moments of negotiation as treaties were formed and the fighting between settlers and tribes came to an end. The treaty establishing these lands as the Mescalero Reservation was signed by President Grant and Chief Santana, in 1873. (This section will include further research into that compelling story, including connections to the Apache warrior Geronimo and his relatives.)Further down the road, and closer to Ruidoso but still on the Mescalero Reservation, the glorious Inn of the Mountain Gods is a must stop before going into town. This luxury hotel holds the most spectacular view of Sierra Blanca Mountain, the highest peak in the area. Take the time to go inside too because the incredible artwork throughout the hotel is something worth seeing, plus there are several good restaurants that include fine dining and a couple of sports bars. And if you are feeling lucky, there is also a casino.

Teepees at the Inn of the Mountain Gods

Now on to the Village of Ruidoso located in the heart of the Sacramento Mountains with views in every direction as Sierra Blanca towers over the area. Here visitors will find hiking, boutique shopping, wineries, and the mountain town adventures that accompany the higher altitudes in Lincoln National Forest. And then there are the trails upon trails to hike, either for long distances or just a short distance to get a good look of the area, and they do not disappoint. The most famous of those near Ruidoso are the long scenic Crest and Argentina Trails located in the White Mountain Wilderness which is adjacent to the Lincoln National Forest. These trails take hikers to elevations that can be as high as 11,000 ft., and they offer sweeping views of the Sacramento Mountains and Sierra Blanca peak which is the highest mountain in southern New Mexico at nearly 12,000 ft. A ski area which is owned and operated by the Mescalero Apache Nation is on the mountain called Ski Apache and draws visitors from around the southwest, Texas and Arizona.

Lincoln National Forest near Cloudcroft on the Mescalero Apache Nation

Ranch near Cloudcroft, NM

Elk in Ruidoso, NM

Wendell’s at the Inn of the Mountain Gods

The Inn of the Mountain Gods

Ruidoso, New Mexico